Home Tweakers' Asylum

Tweaks for systems, rooms and Do It Yourself (DIY) help. FAQ.

Re: Some Rack questions

Hi Brad,

Now there's some detail! Obviously you've spent time thinking about what you want to do - good work!

For the devices you care little about, my recommendation is to focus on aesthetics. Your 5/8" rod 3/4" shelf construction should be plenty sturdy, so you'll have a lot oof freedom to be creative if you like.

For the components you care about, I would indeed redcommend making the rack as light and stiff as possible for the reasons listed in my previous post. It is most likely easier for the Neuance shelf to deal with higher frequency vibrations than lower, so keeping the rack's resonance point as high as possible will help the Neuance to do its thing most effectively (I don't know much about the Neuance, so I'm making some assumptions here about it, but I believe what I said to be true based on experience with other platforms).

For a light and stiff rack, I recommend against using MDF (it's not clear to me what material you intend to use for the shelves). MDF is a heavily damped material, but it is neither light nor stiff. I used 3/4" birch plywood in my rack of similar design (threaded rod flexy type rack), and I'm very happy with the results. You could also use oak plywood, but you tend not to see much oak in audio or accoustic applications (some may disagree, but there certainly seems to be a link between what materials work well for constructing musical instruments and what materials work well in audio setup applications). The two types of wood most commonly used to construct drum shells are birch and maple. If you were to laminate birch ply with maple, I bet you'd end up with something that allowed your components to sound quite sweet.

As for the rubber feet/teflon mover part of the plan, I would recommend against it, however, I don't have a better suggestion for achieving the functionality you desire. Spikes, or even just the bare rod ends will couple the rack to the floor more firmly, and a firmer coupling (less contact area with the floor) tends to make vibrations in the rack less chaotic (the coupling will not drastically change the total amount of vibrational energy entering the rack, but it will alter the nature of it - think of this as a tuning method). Maybe this is just something for you to think about if you get to the point where you know you won't need convenient rear panel access. I feel lucky that I was able to place my rack far enough in front of the wall that I can access the rear without moving the rack.

There are definitely other valid approaches to the issues I address, and I'm looking forward to seeing other opinions on this. I do have first hand experience with the issues I wrote about, however, so I know these methods work.

Best of luck,
Pete


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