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Tweakers' Asylum Tweaks for systems, rooms and Do It Yourself (DIY) help. FAQ. |
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Tweakers' Asylum Tweaks for systems, rooms and Do It Yourself (DIY) help. FAQ. |
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In Reply to: Acoustics and wall construction posted by plantsman on March 23, 2003 at 14:58:37:
As a former dealer/custom installer I can tell you that more rooms are screwed up attemtping to do all kinds of exotic construction techniques than just using common sense. You have to allow for bass loss to have an acceptable sounding room, otherwise it will always sound dead and heavy.We had a customer who did everything, and I mean everything, to his room. Acoustic foams, sound isolation treatments, HVAC dampening, acoutic carpet padding, double wall construction with staggered studs, and a solid 2' custom built maple door, the only access point into the room. As it wasn't a code bedroom, he also filled the window cavity with sand. We strongly discouraged him from this "quest for the perfect room"
Ultimately what he created was the worlds quietest room with absolutely no bass loss - it was like listening to music in a giant barrel - he would come in periodically and say how the sound pressure built up so much that it made his ears "wiggle". LOL LOL LOL.
Standard construction with 5/8 sheetrock (3/4 if they'll do it) with good construction adhesive. Put blocking in between the studs (short horizontal cross members) and heavily glue/screw. That's it for the walls. Do add insulation, rock wool if you can stand it - it's pretty dense and very itchy.
Again, use 5/8 min. rock for the ceiling and do not use a suspended ceiling. If you do you'll end up with a large resonating bass cavity above the ceiling that is extremely hard to get rid of.
Break up the ceiling with decorative beams or consider architectural diffusers. I've seen this done in conjuction with lighting and it creates a very cool listening environment and is effective at breaking up ceiling reflections - the most offensive of the main reflections, in my opinion. Again, don't over do it.
Use a combination of naturally occurring reflective surfaces such as tables, hardwood floors, etc. with naturally occurring dead surfaces such as stuffed sofas, pillows, books, and don't forget plants and other diffusive surfaces.
If possible use minimal panel treatments, if neccesary, to tame main reflections on side walls.
Use the densest carpet pad you can find (if carpet is the choice)to help absorb some of the midrange reflections and maybe a bit of the lower midrange/upper bass. Obviously if you have wood floors throw rugs (with pads if possible) to eliminate floor bounce.
Much of your room's sonic character is determined by the bounce or rigidity in your existing floor and what's beneath you (slab, crawl space, basement, etc.
Most of the things here are design techniques that can create a unique, yet effective, listening space. And, they're nor particularly expensive.
Number one rule: If you can have a pleasant conversation in the room and voices are natural, you will have a good listening room. Much of the rest is using common sense and absolute attention to detail in speaker placement.
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Follow Ups
- Re: Acoustics and wall construction - RKPhillips 20:01:26 03/24/03 (0)
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