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I have a 300ma 15VDC wall wart that powers my digitial equalizer for my subwoofer. The wart plugs directly into the wall (no pigtail) using two prongs. I am not familiar with how wall warts are made so I don't know how easy it would be to replace the wire from the wart. I'm thinking the wire and what it is attached to could all be one piece. Anyone have any experience in dismantling one of these things?Because of its low power it would seem like an interconnect could be used as a replacement. Seem like a good idea? The wire plugs into the component with some type of barrel connector. Anyone know what that is called for ordering purposes?
Follow Ups:
audiophile wall wart! This is beyond my meager DIY skills. Thanks again for the info.
For duty in my bedroom system, I use a Nakamichi EC-200 Mobile Electronic Crossover (active x-over) designed for auto sound installations to filter my stereo subwoofer amplifier's and main amplifier's line-level inputs (Spectron mobile amplifiers... classic). The EC-200 has very little current draw (similar to your application) and to power it I first used a Sony unregulated wall wart intended for an answering machine. It sounded OK, then I tried a similar but regulated wall wart which sounded better but, not great. Then I obtained a Yaesu FP-4 power supply and the crossover's performance was/is greatly improved (Yaesu is a popular brand for ham radio types). It's a 4 amp max power supply but (when fused with a properly selected low value fuse) it's fine for feeding a low current DC device. The power supply's 5-way binding posts allow a choice of DC power umbilical wire, and I have found a 16 AWG mil-spec Teflon insulated silver plated copper twisted pair to sound quite nice (with a ferrite noise blocker clamped at the load end). The Yaesu FP-4 power supply has a DIY power cord installed and is then plugged into a Powervar isolation transformer (with it's own DIY power cord). I believe the FP-4 has an internal adjustment for increasing/decreasing it's output voltage (like many other power supplies of this type).
That's a nice setup! Thanks for the info.clifff in the post below says:
The output connector is shared in style with lots of other "warts". Unfortunately there are MANY different inside and outside diameters of the barrel connector. Most are center positive, BUT NOT ALL!How did you determine the barrel type for your electronic crossover? I found a Yaesu FP4 on line for $45. Would I just pop in a 300ma fuse?
You should further research this issue before making an attempt at it.Note: I assume folks will attempt to receive more information about tweaks and mods than just what I can offer as an initial reply. I'll be glad to offer more advice at your request (including via email).
As for the important fuse question:
Just pop it in? If you mean place it in the back of the power supply enclosure's fuse holder? NO, that's for AC so don't mess with it. The fuse I'm talking about is for the DC output cable and is wired *in-line* with the DC power cable's positive wire, just like as you would a car stereo's power cable. I use a 1 amp fast-blow fuse. You can buy an in-line fuse holder and a fuse at an auto parts store or Radio Shack. A Swenco Posi-Lock In-line Fuseholder is excellent (see link below) and available at auto parts stores (solderless and crimpless).
The Nakamichi EC-200 x-over has a hardwired DC power cable that I shortened and then butt-joint connected to the SPC/Teflon DC power umbilical with a Posi-Lock In-line Fuseholder for the positive wire, and a Posi-Lock Connector (solderless and crimpless butt-joint connector) for the negative wire, so a detachable barrel type DC connector is not used.
Radio Shack sells some barrel type male DC connectors which you will need to match up with your device. You will need to determine the polarity of the barrel type DC connector. The device will function if you get the polarity right or it won't function if you get the polarity wrong. Do damage occured when I reversed the polarity of my x-over's DC connection.
The wallwart supply is cheaply made and has a couple of basic problems:-it makes electrical noise and lacks the ability to filter it;
-it hangs off the AC plug and the weight causes an uncertain AC connection, even with a good outlet.
You would not want to change the fuse in the regulated power supply. The 300 mA rating of the wallwart simply tells you its capacity. Your load probably draws less than this, and having a regulated supply with greater capacity will not hurt anything.
There are many low-cost versions of the DC plugs and jacks. Switchcraft makes some nicer ones. Look at the catalog page referenced and see if one of the jacks shown looks like the jack on your equipment. You may need to obtain a pair of fine calipers to measure the diameter of the interior pin, or simply ask the manufacturer.
Yes, you can use an interconnect cable to supply the DC. Getting the polarity of the voltage right is very important: check it with a voltmeter on your present wallwart supply before you make a replacement.
They vary a lot. From a simple transformer giving AC out, to a transformer with rectifier giving crude DC to a fully regulated DC output.The output connector is shared in style with lots of other "warts". Unfortunately there are MANY different inside and outside diameters of the barrel connector. Most are center positive, BUT NOT ALL!
So, all in all, a right mess.
Often impossible to take apart without breaking plastic tabs.
Clifff,
Do you know of a supplier for good quality wall warts??I plan to get one of those Sonic Impact Tripaths, and could use one.
I also would like to replace the supply for my laptop with a non-switching one.
Given the almost limitless combinations of AC/rectified/switching/linear/polarity and connectors it is hard to see how.
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