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...if you only listen at low to medium volume levels? Will the sound be fuller/richer or is that more dependent on the sonic nature(quality) of the amp?I just sold my 100w/channel amp and am going to upgrade to a higher quality amp. Should I stay around 100w/channel or go for say a 200-300 w/channel amp that may not be as "high quality" as the lesser power amp.
the watts mentioned are into a 4 ohm speaker.
Follow Ups:
...what good is having several hundred more of them per channel? I'm sounding like a SET advocate here, and that was not really my intention. But it IS the quality of the 1st few watts that count the most. Good arguement for SET, or Class A SS like I have.
Before buying a Bryston 3BSST (150W/Channel) to drive my Vandersteen 3A Sigs, I listened extensively to the 4BSST (250W/Channel). With respect to specifications, the 3BSST better matches the recommendations of Vandersteen. ..However, as encouraged by the "more is always better" proponents you encounter here, I wanted to see if there was an audible advantage to the 4BSST. I can say that I could not discern one ioda of difference b/w the two.One sensible inmate pointed out (I forget the math of his arguement, but it made sense) that the difference in audible volume b/w a 150w/channel amp and a 250w/channel is barely audible. ..This of course assumes that you actually drive both amps to their maximum output, which I'd never do.
I ended up chosing the 3BSST and figured the $1000 I saved would buy quite a bit of music to enjoy!
"Will the sound be fuller/richer or is that more dependent on the sonic nature(quality) of the amp?"In my experiences, with rare exception, taking two amplifiers from the same line, I've preferred the lower powered amp over the higher powered amp when playing within the lower-powered amp's power range...
(I can think of two exceptions- Jeff Rowland and the '70's Onkyo TX-x500 receiver line. Rowland's Model 7 and 9 monoblocks are the only > 200-watt solid-state amps I've really liked.)
This would be a very very general rule of thumb.
That you get what you pay for:
More power (those big watts cost money) means less quality for the same price point as a smaller amp that uses better parts.
nt
To human ears, the answer is NO. the low power tube SET amp is better:
http://web.mit.edu/cheever/www/cheever_thesis.pdf
I'm about to get an amp that puts out 650 wpc into 4 ohms. Recommended amp power of my speakers is 130 wpc, IEC Long Term Handling power is <270. I currently have a 400 wpc amp driving them, and they've never sounded better, but is there an upper watt limit where you are putting your drivers at risk?
...speakers are damaged for more often by distortion (clipping) caused by demanding more power from an amp than it is capable of providing. However, a speaker does have it's limits even with clean power, that's why they quote a max power rating. The speaker's max power rating is usually given for continuous power but can handle peaks of much greater power without harm being done. You probably will never provide an average level of 130 watts to your speakers in a home setting.
as things go - from a super efficient single driever horn speaker to my "suck your amp's capactors dry" maggies - there's a rather large range of efficiency. I don't think 130watts are an unusual average level at loud play on my speakers, while the same setting would probably vaporize some horn drivers designed to live behind a 4 watt tube amp...In my scenario, 1000 or more watts per channel are just what you need, even though the manufacturer would never put that on the label (not to scare off customers because they don't have such amps...)
"In my scenario, 1000 or more watts per channel are just what you need, even though the manufacturer would never put that on the label (not to scare off customers because they don't have such amps...)"Well heck, in that case maybe I should jump up from the Simaudio W6's to a pair of their Rocks...now that would be a heady thing...2000 wpc per speaker ought to have them standing on their ear, if they had an ear, and doing the hoochy coo!!
...upon the electrical characteristics of your speakers. If their impedance dips very low or varies widely over the frequency range, you will need an amp capable of providing high current which may correspond to higher power rating, but not necessarily. In general a more powerful amp will provide more solid deep bass, even at moderate levels.
The amp that best matches the speaker load can make a difference. If you have a tough load, a higher power/high current amp can make a difference. Even at moderate levels, it can open up the sound from top to bottom. In terms of "quality", you need to do your research and, of course, audition these various amps to see if it really makes a sonic difference.
Regards,
Jerry O.
My rule of thumb is to try and get an amp that is very near the max handling watts of the speaker, giving room for program peaks so there is no clipping. I just replaced my current receiver (NAD T752) with a new NAD C372 integrated amp and it breathed life into my 4 ohm Polk LSi9's. The wattage I had before was 90 watts, which granted was "true" meaning it never sag'd below that wattage, and the new amp has 180 watts (max on the speaker is 200 watts). The sound is so much more clearer and my speakers can actually project the full range it is capable of on the music tracks. I know it could be the amp's contruction as well but the rule of thumb still remains, try and shoot as high as you can but not over-stepping or getting too close to the max handling of the speakers wattage. Hope this makes sense...
Some of best full range speaker drivers are low power and with very big magnets. Those drivers like Lowther has very special corn paper that are very efficient and reveals much more details than any other common speakers. This is why lots of Audiophiles is prefer low power SET amps. I have Dared VP-300B SET and just got pair of Lowther DX3 drivers. I currently mounted the drivers on a pair of small bass reflect inclosures and the results are mazing! I am planing to build a backload horn enclosure of the DX3.Following example, I just posted on "Tube forum", show you how to select a speaker for your amp. If your listen-room size is about 20 X 15 ft you usually do not want your sound level goes beyond 102 dB. Otherwise, it is too loud. Of course, it depends on who is listening and what type music you are playing. If you have a pair of speakers with 88dB efficiency (at 1 Watt/m), so you need an amp to gain at least 14dB in order to reach 102dB level. The amp needs to power the speakers shall have at least 25 Watts (because of 10log(25/1)=14dB). However, if you have a pair of speakers with 96 dB (at 1 W/m) you need an amp to gain just 6dB to reach 102dB level. That is about 4 Watts. Yes, you just need less than 4 watts to power a 96dB speaker to reach 102dB sound level. Most of SET amp has power less than 8 Watts (300B SET amp is around 6 – 8 watts, 2A3 SET amp is about 2 - 4 watts, and 45 SET is less than 1 watts). Now, the bass at down to 30 Hz is different story. Most woofers has only 75 - 80 dB at 30 Hz though. So, if you like to have your bass down to 30 Hz at 102 dB level, you need a 200 Watts of sub though. But, loudness to human ears is invers proportional to frequencey. The 30 Hz bass at 102 dB level is very very loud compareing to 10,000 Hz at 102 dB level.
Unless you may change speakers or your previous amp was clipping at all then it sounds like a 100wpc is enough for you. More power never hurts to have though and unless you're spending way more money the differences are pretty small between high quality amps.
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